Newsletter
The veterinarians and staff at Perinton Veterinary Hospital are pleased to provide you with an online newsletter. This fun and fact-filled newsletter is updated on a regular basis.
Included in the newsletter are articles pertaining to pet care, information on our animal hospital, as well as news on the latest trends and discoveries in veterinary medicine.
Please enjoy the newsletter!
Current Newsletter Topics
You can't live properly with a dog unless it's trained. It's that simple, and it really doesn't matter whether your canine is a four-pound Toy or a 104-pound Working breed. An untrained dog is an invitation to disaster. A dog that won't come when you call is always in danger.

A Well Behaved Dog Requires Obedience Training
You can't blame the dog either. If you don't train your dog, you are at fault. No one else. In fact, if you're not prepared to properly train your dog, you probably shouldn't get one in the first place.
Now for the good news: dogs are easily trained. That's probably the reason why dogs have long been America's favorite pet. Despite the fact that they train relatively easily, however, you still have to do the job. One way to make training simple is to get a breed that readily adapts to your life-style and that corresponds to what you want in a canine companion. Serious breeders can help you with this. They should tell you about their breed's inherent trainability—advice you should heed before making your final decision.
Rest assured that training does not strip a dog of natural instincts or "joie de vivre." After all, these are the things that attract people to dogs in the first place. We want you to celebrate the canine spirit, not abuse it.
What training does, however, is structure the dog's responses, giving you a good companion. Training gives you an animal you can trust, rely on, even flaunt. In fact, it establishes a channel of communication between you and your dog that significantly enhances your mutual respect and friendship.

Training a Dog Enhanced Your Relationship
Every civilized dog should know at least five basic commands: heel, sit, down, stay and come. These commands form the core of the exercises required for a Companion Dog degree in an American Kennel Club Novice Obedience competition. Even if you don't take your dog beyond these beginning lessons, they are absolutely essential in making every dog a true companion.
Incidentally, you train your dog to understand its name in much the same way you train it to do anything—by simple, repetitive action. As far as the name goes, make sure everyone in the household is using the same name. And, you can teach an older dog a new name, if you must.
- Tylenol, Advil and chocolate are poisonous to cats.
- The ancestor of all domestic cats is the African Wild Cat which still exists today.
- In ancient Egypt, killing a cat was a crime punishable by death.
- In ancient Egypt, cats were preserved as mummies and embalmed mice were placed with them in their tombs. In one ancient city, over 300,000 cat mummies were found.
- The first cat show was in 1871 at the Crystal Palace in London.
- Today there are about 100 distinct breeds of the domestic cat.
- Genetic mutation created the domestic cat, which is tame from birth.
- Like birds, cats have a homing ability that uses its biological clock, the angle of the sun, and the earth's magnetic field.
- Hunting is not instinctive for cats. Kittens born to non-hunting mothers may never learn to hunt.
- Cats bury their feces to cover their trails from predators.
- Mother cats teach their kittens to use the litter box.
- Among other tasks, cats can be taught to use a toilet, come, sit, beg, eat with their paws, heel, jump through a hoop, play a piano, play dead, roll over, open a door, hide food in boxes, shake, and fetch.
- Cats sleep 16 to 18 hours per day. When cats are asleep, they are still alert to incoming stimuli. If you poke the tail of a sleeping cat, it will respond accordingly.
- In Great Britain, black cats are thought to bring good luck.
- Besides smelling with their nose, cats can smell with an additional organ called the Jacobson's organ, located in the upper surface of the mouth.
- Cats can't taste sweets.
- The chlorine in fresh tap water irritates sensitive parts of the cat's nose. Let tap water sit for 24 hours before giving it to a cat.
- The average cat food meal is the equivalent to about five mice.
- The catgut formerly used as strings in tennis rackets and musical instruments does not come from cats. Catgut actually comes from sheep, hogs, and horses.
- A large majority of white cats with blue eyes are deaf. White cats with only one blue eye are deaf only in the ear closest to the blue eye. White cats with orange eyes do not have this disability.
- Neutering a cat extends its life span by two or three years.
- Ten human years translate to about 60 cat years. A one year old cat is similar in age to an 18 year old human.
The most likely cause of bad breath is gingivitis and dental disease. Other problems that can cause bad breath include oral ulcers and oral tumors. Most likely, the cause of your pet’s halitosis is dental disease. Drooling and a reluctance to chew hard foods are two other symptoms associated with dental disease in pets.
As in humans, the stages of dental problems in pets are well known. Gingivitis, a condition marked by a reddened area where the tooth meets the gum line, is the first stage in dental disease. The accumulation of plaque (at the gum line) causes this problem. As in humans, plaque is a combination of bacteria, food particles, and saliva. With time, the plaque accumulates under the gum line, between the tooth and the gum tissue. If plaque is not removed at this point, it creates a large pocket under the gum line. The bacteria associated with the plaque attack the supporting structure, leading to loose teeth and abscesses—the dreaded periodontal disease. Professional care is often needed to rectify this problem.
An oral exam is performed each time your pet is examined. If necessary, a dental procedure is recommended. Once the plaque has started to accumulate, your pet’s teeth need to be cleaned.
Teeth cleaning requires a three-step procedure. The first step involves the removal of tartar or plaque from the surface of the teeth.

Teeth Cleaning
Next, the teeth are scaled (removing plaque from under the gum line).

Hand Scaling the Teeth
Finally, the teeth are polished and a fluoride treatment is applied. Fluoride discourages the growth of bacteria and helps to strengthen the tooth enamel.

Polishing of Teeth
But as we all know, an ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure. Believe it or not, you can, and should, brush your pet’s teeth! Do not use your own toothpaste; special products are available that are not irritating or harmful to your pet.

Home Care Products
A child’s toothbrush works best for most pets, but don’t attempt to put a toothbrush in your pet’s mouth during the first encounter. First, get your pet used to having its mouth opened then use your finger to rub the gum line. Follow this procedure with a hard treat (reward). Gradually work your way up to the brush and repeat daily.
If you have questions regarding your pet’s dental health, do not hesitate to call the veterinary hospital

Americans are crowding the highways for summer vacation, taking their four-legged friends along for the ride. But before pet lovers hit the road, it's important to take their pets' needs into consideration.
Trips should be as close to your pet's normal routine as possible. If you've never traveled with your pet, start with very short, round-the-block trips before you put them in the car or truck for the long ride. Your veterinarian can give you some good advice and recommend ways to make your pet more comfortable.

For the safety of both you and your pet, it's best to travel with dogs and cats in pet carriers. In case of an accident, airborne pets are very prone to injury. Carriers are especially important for cats. Many cats will ride on your shoulder, on your head, or get under your feet. It's a potentially dangerous situation if you need to stop quickly and they are under the brake pedal.
Though keeping a pet "strapped down" for safety is important, people should not use standard safety belts on their pets. These belts are designed for human positioning. Dogs don't conform to human positioning with much success. However, there are canine "seat belts," which are actually harnesses that attach to the car's seat belts and may be used to hold dogs in place during the trip.
Owners should also plan for extra stops if pets accompany them on a trip. Because of stress, some cats don't eat or drink and won't need to use the litter box. But it should be provided for them, especially if it's your first trip with your cat. If they don't use it, take them out at rest stops on a leash and see if they'll go.
The number of stops depends on what your pet is used to. Most pets eliminate shortly after they eat. Therefore, if you can control when the food goes in, you can usually control when it goes out.
In terms of exercise, owners should follow their pet's normal schedule. If you take your dog for a 30-minute walk in the evening at home, take the dog for a walk in the evening at your destination. Also, exercising your dog before it gets into the car may make the trip more relaxing for both you and your dog.
Many pets enjoy getting out of the house, as long as it's not a trip to the veterinarian. But if you're planning to drive non-stop, or if you're taking a very short trip, it is probably best to leave the pets at home. Really think if it's necessary for a pet to go with you, or if you are just being selfish and want the pet for company. A trip can cause unneeded stress on an animal.
It is an especially good idea to leave pets at home if they have current health problems that may worsen on the trip. For instance, if a pet has had respiratory problems and the trip is in the mountains, it may be better to leave that pet at home. If you know what direction you're traveling on a long trip, choose towns along the way that have easy access to veterinarians. This is particularly important if your pet has had a recent illness or problems traveling in the past.
If you're concerned about the pet having motion sickness or getting car sick, talk to your veterinarian about a prescription for a tranquilizer or sedative to calm the pet before the trip. Before giving any type of medication, contact your veterinarian to make sure that it is safe.
Finally, it's a good idea to call ahead and make reservations with hotels, motels and campgrounds that accept and welcome pets. Take the necessary supplies, including plastic bags, to clean up after your pet at rest areas.

About two weeks before the kittens are due, a nesting box (or queening box) should be introduced to the expectant mother. This box should be made from a washable material and located in a warm and secluded area. The bottom of the box should be lined with an absorbent material that can be changed frequently. Newspapers, towels, or clean rags make excellent bed liners.
The first stage of labor may last anywhere from several hours to an entire day (24 hours). The queen is restless, fidgety, and usually refuses to eat. The expectant mother may pace about the house or begin digging in the queening box. Abdominal contractions signal the end of this period and the beginning of active labor.
Straining of the stomach muscles (contractions) marks the beginning of the second phase of labor. As the mother continues to strain, less time elapses between contractions. Generally within 15 minutes to one hour after contractions begin, a fluid-filled sac appears at the vaginal opening. This sac surrounds the first kitten.
After several contractions, the first kitten is born. The time interval between successive kittens can range anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Some experienced mothers are able to complete the entire birthing process in 30 minutes.
Generally when each kitten is born, it is enclosed in a membrane or sac. The mother usually licks the kitten's face and breaks the sac. If this sac is not immediately broken by the mother, human intervention is required. The sac must be opened, and the kitten's face must be rubbed. Rubbing the kitten's face with a clean cloth is an excellent method to stimulate breathing. Sometimes the kitten is born without a membrane or sac. If this occurs, the sac will follow the kitten, arriving together with the umbilical cord.
There are two normal positions for delivery. The kittens can come out "head first" or "rear first". A "rear first" delivery is generally more difficult than a "head first" delivery.
Human intervention is required when a kitten is lodged in the birth canal. When this occurs (and the mother is not able to expel the kitten herself), the mother must be restrained and gentle traction applied to the kitten. The kitten is grasped with a clean dry towel and pulled in a downward position, toward the mother's feet. When a kitten is lodged in the birth canal for a considerable amount of time, it is usually born dead.
A greenish-black discharge occurs between births. This discharge is normal and is often blood-tinged. If a reddish discharge occurs at the beginning of labor, and the expectant mother strains for more than one hour without delivering kittens, immediate veterinary attention is required.
After each kitten is born, the remaining portion of the sac should be removed from its face. Any mucus surrounding the nostrils should be cleared away. Kittens should be dried with a clean towel and rubbed in order to stimulate breathing. Using a fine-diameter thread, each umbilical cord should be tied about one inch from the kitten's belly. The cord is cut on the far side of the knot, and the remaining stump (with the cord) is dipped into a white iodine solution. If the kittens are similar looking, it is best to number each one with a permanent marker.

Nursing Kittens
When the mother is relaxed and she settles down with her kittens, it is safe to assume that the birthing process is over. A small amount of vaginal bleeding is normal and this often continues for 2 or 3 days. If bleeding seems heavy or continues beyond this period, veterinary attention is required.

Just like a new parent needs a crib or playpen for a new baby, a new dog owner should provide a crate for his or her new pup. Crates are a place your puppy can call his own - a place they can go and retreat when they want or need space, and a haven for you to place them in for their own safety. Crates are an indispensable aid in house training and dealing with misbehavior. A crate can help calm anxious or hyperactive pups and help prevent a puppy from chewing and destroying your house and possibly hurting himself while you are away. In addition, a crate is a convenient method of carrying your pet when you travel.
Choosing a Crate
Both solid plastic airline and wire mesh crates are available. If you travel extensively, the foldable wire mesh crates are preferable. When purchasing a crate, make sure there is enough room for your pup to stand up and move around.
Introducing the Crate

If you introduce the crate when the pup is young, he should readily adjust to it. Puppies love people, so put the crate in an area where you and your family spend time. The kitchen, den or family room are general the best places. Crates need to be perceived as a fun place where your pup wants to be. If the crate is placed in an isolated area, your pup may cry and revolt.
A rule of thumb for how many hours your pup can be confined is the number of months they are old plus one; i.e., a three-month-old pup should not be crated more than four hours. Each pup has its own individual preferences and differences. Most pups can hold their needs by four months of age if they’re on a feeding and watering schedule.
Initially try and introduce the crate early in the day on a weekend and keep the door open. This allows him to investigate the area. Throw some treats in the crate, play fetch the ball in the crate, store his toys in there and let him go in and out at his own leisure. Feed him in the crate, leaving the door open. If he initially hesitates - put the bowl near the crate door so he can reach in and get to it.
Closing the Door
It is important to schedule crating after your pup has had a good amount of exercise and has eliminated. Put your pup in there when he is tired and give him a treat and a toy, then praise him and shut the door. Provide him with a toy or bone that he can chew. (If necessary, this bone or toy can amuse him for several hours.) As soon as this is done, leave the room for a few minutes. He may complain, but give him a few minutes. NEVER reward his cries by letting him out (he will learn to continue crying if you do so). Once his crying has stopped - let him out.
Do not put papers in the cage. This may encourage him to go to the bathroom there. If your pup messes on blankets in the crate, do not put any inside the crate.

The Noisy Pup
Some pups will cry continuously for 15 minutes or more. If crying continues, a light correction may be needed. You can try to sneak up on the pup (without him seeing you) and tap the wall. This sudden noise may quiet him. You may need to repeat this several times. Another recommendation is to try a squirt from a water gun or shake a soda can full of coins. Do not speak; you do not want the pup to associate the punishment with you. If all else fails, anti-barking devises such as a citronella spray collar may be needed. This is quite effective and a humane method to control barking.
Could your dog be suffering from Periodontal Disease? Take our Self Test and find out!
The quiz below will help you see if your dog is at risk. Your dog may be suffering from periodontal disease if you answer "Yes" to three or more of the following questions about risk factors or symptoms:
Answer Yes or No to the following questions:
Is your dog:
1. Three years old or more?
2. A smaller breed (Terrier, Schnauzer)?
3. Plagued with bad breath?
4. Showing a loss of appetite or a reluctance to eat?
5. Suffering from swollen or inflamed gums?
6. Lethargic or continually fatigued?
7. Showing moderate to heavy dental tarter?
8. Salivating excessively?
9. Showing pain when caressed near the mouth?
10. Leaving traces of blood on its chew toys?
11. Missing one or more teeth?
12. Often pawing at its mouth?
13. Losing a significant amount of weight?
If the total in the YES column is:
3 or more - your dog may have periodontal disease.
5 or more - your dog may have an advanced case of periodontal disease.
7 or more - your dog may have a severe case of periodontal disease.